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HISTORIC NEW HOPE
By Terry A. McNealy, a Director of the New Hope Historical Society
Change
is inevitable. Anyone who likes history is keenly aware
of this. Change can be slow or fast-paced. It can
be subtle or drastic. Local communities experience such
changes all the time. If local industries go out of business,
a small town can be devastated. But not necessarily. The
borough of New Hope provides an example of how an old town
whose economy was based on industry has morphed into a
community that draws its strength from the arts, tourism,
and a unique spirit of independence and nonconformity.
Today, New Hope has the image of a tourist town with a heritage
profound in its roots in theater, art and the antiques
trade. It was not always so.
A hundred years ago, New Hope was an industrial town, with
mills that employed its few hundred citizens.
Around that time, a few artists moved into the neighborhood,
attracted by the beauty of the Delaware River valley, the old stone farmhouses,
barns and mills. Few of the people who worked in the mills probably noticed.
They were busy grinding grain, manufacturing paper, or quarrying stone.
The products of their work found their way into the wider
world by means of canal boats or the railroad.
Today, the gristmills are ruins or registered historic buildings,
the paper mills have been converted into condominiums
and shopping areas. The canal
is a state park that is ever more difficult to maintain, and the railroad
carries mostly excursionists.
New Hope got its start because of the two things that drove
its economy throughout its first two centuries:
transportation and water power. Indeed,
during the
time of William Penn, a thousand acres of land were surveyed for a
man named Robert Heath in 1700, covering the site of
present-day New Hope.
This large
tract of land was divided into two 500-acre parcels. One became known
as the “Mill
Tract,” and the other as the “Ferry Tract,” anticipating
the economic future of this locality for the next two centuries. In
the early years of the eighteenth century, Solebury Township was just
beginning
to be
divided up into land grants that were settled by pioneer families that
were mostly of English origin and members of the Society of Friends,
or Quakers.
The same was true of those who were settling across the Delaware River
in New Jersey. Robert Heath may well have chosen the location of his
land grant because
it included a stream that came to be known as Ingham Creek (from the
name of a prominent landowner a century later), which provided a strong
enough flow
to power mills. Even in the earliest years of settlement, sawmills
were needed to assist in the clearing of the virgin forest and make
the building
materials
that were in great demand.
Likewise, as soon as the land was cleared, farmers began planting
fields of wheat and other grain crops. This
required gristmills that ground
the grain
into flour, both for the subsistence of the pioneer families themselves,
and as the beginning of a cash crop that could be marketed in cities
like Philadelphia.
Overland transport was primitive, and roads were little more than
trails through the forest. Wagons and carriages were
a fond memory of the
old country, but
few existed in rural Pennsylvania. A local road leading to Heath’s
mill is still called Sugan Road, so called for the “suggans” or
saddle-bags used by farmers riding on horseback to carry their grain
to the mill for grinding.
Robert Heath died in 1710. His son Richard’s
heirs sold the Mill Tract in 1712 to Jacob Holcombe. The potential
of the creek as a power source continued
to attract attention, and in 1717, Holcombe sold to tract to Thomas
Canby and two wealthy Philadelphia investors, Morris Morris and
Richard Waln. Canby held
the majority share and ran the mills. A shrewd businessman and
an ambitious developer, he used his political skills
to get road laid
out and other improvements
to get better access to his mills.
Philadelphia rapidly grew to be the largest city in the British colonies
in North
America, and New York was also growing apace.
It was natural
that overland
communication between these two urban centers became increasingly
important. The old King’s Highway led from Philadelphia
through Bristol to the ferry that crossed the Delaware at Trenton
and on
to the ferries that provided the
last leg of the journey to Manhattan Island. A new, alternative,
route might prove to be advantageous. In 1710 a new route was
proposed, but the new highway
proved to be a matter of much strife. Today we still have two
old highways, the Upper York Road and the Lower York Road, also
called
the Old York Road.
These names today seem quaint, but they represent an early example
of two neighboring governments not to communicate very well,
something that is not at all unfamiliar
today. Pennsylvania’s authorities laid out the road so
that it came to the river at Centre Bridge. New Jersey surveyed
the
road to a landing at the
place we know today as Lambertville. The embarrassed Pennsylvanians,
perhaps prodded by Thomas Canby, revised their plans to match
up with those of their
counterparts across the river. The upper road, neglected for
many years, survived, although it never became as significant
as the
crossing a few miles downstream.
The establishment of the new highway brought with it the
need for a ferry to cross the Delaware
and for an inn to shelter those
waiting
to make
the passage.
John Wells bought the Ferry Tract in 1717, and two years later
got a license to operate a tavern there. Within another two
years an
act
of
the Pennsylvania
assembly gave him the exclusive right to operate the ferry.
Wells had to carry out a protracted political struggle
with his rival
Thomas Canby in
legislative
debates and court cases to gain his victory. The tiny village
at the
crossing place was known for years as Wells’ Ferry.
When Thomas Canby died in 1742, his son Benjamin took possession
of the mills. As another enterprising businessman, he bought
the ferry
from
Wells in 1745,
and tried out another line of making a profit by setting
up a forge for manufacturing iron on the mill tract,
which continued
operating
for several
years after
his death in 1748.
A new era began in 1764, when John Coryell bought the ferry
from Benjamin Canby’s
heirs. The Coryells had operated the New Jersey side of the
ferry for years, and now they controlled both sides of the
enterprise. They continued to do
so throughout the period of the American Revolution. John
Coryell was a colorful character, devoted to horse racing
and other activities. In and out of debt,
he often depended on his friends to keep him out of the clutches
of the sheriff. On a couple of occasions his tavern license
was revoked, but every time he
was able to convince the county court to reinstate it.
Coryell was an ardent supporter of the American Revolution, as
most tavern-keepers were. Troops protected his ferry
even
before
the fortunes
of war brought
the conflict to his doorstep in December 1776. Washington’s
forces had been defeated in several encounters around New
York, and the Americans were obliged
to retreat through New Jersey and seek refuge in Pennsylvania,
wisely collecting all the boats along the river on the
west bank. When General Charles Cornwallis
and his troops came up to the New Jersey side of the ferry
and found it impossible to cross, Coryell no doubt felt
some pride in making sure that the British
could not make the crossing that he had made so many times.
Tradition says that the British soldiers fired across the
river in frustration.
Coryell had other things to occupy his mind. The Americans around
his tavern were German-speaking
troops from Pennsylvania
and
Maryland commanded
by
Colonel Nicholas Hausseger. Soon a new commanding officer
arrived from France, Mathieu
Alexis Roche de Fermoy, whose lack of command of the
English language was a frustration to General Washington.
New Hope,
it seems, encountered
its
first
encounter with multilingual difficulty.
The events that followed were some of the most dramatic
in the entire history of the Revolution. At a time when
most
military commanders
would have settled
into winter quarters, Washington braved the winter weather
to
cross the Delaware at McConkey’s Ferry, several miles south of Coryell’s, and stormed
the outpost at Trenton, which was occupied by Hessian mercenaries in the employ
of the British. This success, along with that at Princeton a few days later,
insured the continuation of the American revolutionary cause, and saved Washington’s
reputation.
The victory at Trenton saved Coryell’s Ferry from
any further direct threat of British assault, but the crossing
remained important throughout the
war. Messengers, war supplies, and military detachment
crossed the river here on many occasions. For a time in
1777 Benedict Arnold commanded the post here,
not long before he decided to turn traitor to the American
cause.
The American army crossed the river at Coryell’s
Ferry later in 1777, anticipating the British attack on
Philadelphia, and again in 1778, after enduring
the winter at Valley Forge.
An enterprising young businessman named Benjamin Parry
came to town around 1781. He owned mills on both sides
of the
river. One of them
was called
Prime Hope Mills, near Lambertville. That mill burned
down in
1790, and Parry built
a new mill at the mouth of Ingham Creek shortly afterward,
calling it New Hope Mills. The name had power, and attached
itself to
the town that
was
beginning
to grow up around the ferry and the mills. His home was
the Parry Mansion, which remained in the family until
1966. It
is now preserved
as a museum
by the New Hope Historical Society, and is open to the
public for tours.
Parry promoted the town like no one before him. He helped organize
the New Hope Delaware Bridge
Company, which
built the bridge
to Lambertville in 1812.
It was the second bridge built across the Delaware,
preceded only by the one that united Morrisville and
Trenton.
Parry was also
a prominent
figure
in bringing
another engineering achievement to New Hope, the Delaware
Canal. Actually, the Delaware Division was only one
part of an ambitious
system of canals
and related transportation links intended to connect
the state’s natural
resources, such as coal and iron, to manufacturers
and markets. Construction of the Delaware Division
took place
between 1827 and 1832. The decades that
followed were boom years for New Hope, as boatyards,
stores and hotels thrived, new mills were built, and
canal barges streamed through town, laden with coal,
lumber, building materials and other cargo. An outlet
lock was built to allow canal boats to cross the river
to Lambertville, where they could continue their
journey on the Delaware and Raritan Canal across New
Jersey toward New York.
Inevitably, the canals succumbed to their great rival, the railroads.
Traffic on the
canal dwindled, and it
became a
picturesque but
outmoded curiosity.
A railroad line to New Hope opened in 1893, but it
was not a major route, though it did provide local
farmers
will easier
access to
Philadelphia markets.
Around this time, a group of artists began to settle
along the river, such as William L. Lathrop, Daniel
Garber and
Edward W.
Redfield.
Although their
homes and studios were scattered along the river
valley in places like Lumberville, Centre Bridge,
and Phillips
Mill,
their group
became known
as the New Hope
School, and the town acquired a reputation as an
artists’ colony.
Another new era began in 1939, when a group of people interested
in the arts purchased
the old Parry gristmill
and transformed
it into
the Bucks
County
Playhouse, which thrived in the heyday of summer-stock
theaters, bringing many prominent actors and actresses
to its stage.
Many plays were tried
out here
before moving on the Broadway. The town settled
into its new role, not as a mill town but as a destination
for tourists,
antique collectors,
theater audiences,
and art aficionados. One of the newest additions
in as branch of the James A. Michener Art Museum,
bringing
new attention
to the
century-old heritage
of the painters and other artists who put New Hope
on
the map
in a
way
that
few other small towns can hope for.
Added
note: This article appeared in the Spring 2005 issue
of Bucks County Town & Country Living. The Society
is very grateful to its editor, Bob Waite, for receiving
his permission to reprint Terry McNealy’s article
on our web-site.
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You may also link to essays written by Jon Gonsiewski's
AP History Classes at the New Hope Solebury
High School. In an effort to bring New Hope's history closer
to each of us as individuals, the New Hope Historical Society
approached the high school to implement this project. Mr.
Gonsiewski graciously offered to get this project rolling
and we hope to be able to offer you, the public, a never
ending stream of interesting and informative essays on
the New Hope area. Feel free to Contact
Us with your comments. ~ Marilyn Bullock, Chair, Scholarship
Committee.
Go
to Student Page
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